Monday, June 24, 2019

1830s Skirt

My 1830s skirt is done. The fabric is soooo beautiful! It has little cords woven in to make the windowpane look, which have a way of coming out and becoming cat temptations when they do. The little squares are exactly 1/2" so that's helpful for cutting.

I bought some Kona cotton in a color called "Spice" for the lining, and flat lined the skirt panels using my serger. Not HA but it finishes the seams nicely and is easy. I cut the lining to the full width of my fabric (45") and then used the serger to match up the fabric panels, which are wider at 60". It has 3 45" panels with the front having a slight scoop in the center. The back two are just rectangles. It's going to be attached to the bodice, so I bound the upper edge with twill tape.

The extant image I'm copying looked like it had wide knife pleats in the back and box pleats in the front, and only 4-5 pleats per quarter skirt. It took a while to get it figured out, and then I realized I cut my twill tape 1" too short so had to take out all the pins and start over, but I figured it out. I couldn't get the box pleats to work out in the front with how much fabric I had to take in, so I just went with knife pleats all the way around.




It was definitely way too long, as this skirt is supposed to sit at ankle length. I find TV skirts tend to be long, and it did hurt to cut about 6" off the bottom. I'll save those ends to do the belt though. 

I also decided to add a hem facing using cotton organdy leftover from the corded petticoat. I cut the facing at 5" wide and sewed to the bottom edge, turned inside, and hemmed into place by hand. It took several hours to hand hem 135" of skirt!

Fiona for some reason is OBSESSED with this fabric and immediately crawled under the skirt when I put it on Petunia. Then when I put it on the ironing board for safekeeping, this is where I found her!


Here's a peek at the inside. I am super pleased how well the lining matches, even though it won't be seen. Look at that lovely blind hemming too! Hemming to a lining is easier though, because I don't have to worry about stitches showing on the right side. It's a huge skirt and it feels so floofy when worn!


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