I used Simplicity 8579 for the shift and panniers. After posting photos on the 18th century sewing group I was told the shift MUST be white since I am a high class lady. I got a good price on 6 yards of sand colored linen. The shift made up easily, and I cheated and machine sewed all my seams since they're not really visible on linen, and plus, undergarments, so who cares?
The panniers were very easy to do as well. I used 1/2" hoop steel and already had 1/2" bone tips. I made both of these in a day. Here are photos of the finished stays over the shift, as well as a photo with the panniers. Boyfriend is hired as my lady's maid because he did an excellent job lacing me in! I did made a size small stays pattern and they fit perfectly with no adjustment. My mock-up was too big, but I knew from experience that once the boning was in and using heavier fabric would give me a good fit.
I also made a petticoat using the tutorial from Koshka the cat. Then began the great bleaching experiment. I tried bleaching a sample of the linen and got it to a pale yellow color. I then got some Rit color remover and soaked the shift and petticoat in that, with no change. I did two overnight bleach treatments in the washer on the shift and pannier, and was horrified to find that the linen is fraying at the seams (not the actual seam, but the fabric itself), and it's an awful yellow/orange color. So .... lesson learned. First they're undergarments so I should have ignored the "must be white" peer pressure and left them be. Now they are ruined, so I bought some white linen on eBay and will start over. Sigh. I do think this linen is probably a bit heavy for a shift and petticoat anyhow. I have extra fabric and I think it will be a good lining for the robe bodice.
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